Guest Post: In Car CD Visor Tutorial

I’m very happy to hand over the reigns today to very talented quilter and stitcher Fiona from Celtic Thistle Stitches. I urge you to pop over and say hello as not only has Fiona got some very easy to follow tutorials to tempt you with she is also a knowledge on making vodka cocktails in the dishwasher! If you’re like me and you haven’t worked out how to get your iPod to work in the car quite yet and find that your CDs end up strewn on the passenger seat then this one is for you… 

Hi, I’m Fiona and I blog at Celtic Thistle Stitches. I was delighted when Kellie offered me the opportunity to post a guest tutorial on this blog. I love searching through her Plush Addict store, and always find something new and different to tempt me 🙂

Today I am sharing with you how to make this Visor CD Wallet.

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This wallet is for my son, who came back one day complaining that all of his CD’s had tumbled out of his CD wallet when he turned a particularly sharp corner on the road home 🙂 When I saw the Riley Blake Geekly Chic Records in Gray I knew that I had found the perfect fabric for his new CD wallet!

To make your own Visor CD Wallet you will need the following:

0.5 yard Geekly Chic Records in Gray for the wallet front, pockets and binding – Fabric A

0.5 yard Kona Solid in Lipstick for the wallet back and pockets – Fabric B

0.5 yard medium-weight fusible interfacing

Non-slip mat 20″ x 6″ or Slipper Gripper

Vilene Fusible Ultra Heavy Interfacing 12″ x 7″ or equivalent

12″ 0.75″ wide white elastic

Gutermann HT2 Textile Glue

Teflon Sewing Machine Foot or Tissue Paper

Finished wallet dimensions – 6″ x 11″ (Check before you start that this will fit the back of your Visor, and if not adjust the measurements accordingly)

Seam measurements are 0.25″ throughout unless stated otherwise.

Step 1 – Cut the following: 

From Fabric A,

1 square         6″ x 6″

1 rectangle     6″ x 7″

3 rectangles    8″ x 8.25″

1 strip             2″ x 40″

From Fabric B,

1 rectangle      6″ x 11″

3 rectangles     8″ x 8.25″

From the medium-weight fusible interfacing,

1 square          6″ x 6″

1 rectangle      6″ x 7″

6 rectangles    8″ x 8.25″

From the Ultra Heavy Fusible Interfacing,

1 rectangle      6″ x 11″

From the Non-Slip Mat or Slipper Gripper,

8 rectangles    2″ x 5.5″

Step 2 – Strengthening the fabric pieces:

Fuse the Fabric B 6″ x 11″ rectangle to the matching piece of Ultra Heavy Fusible interfacing. Set aside.

Fuse the Fabric A and Fabric B 8″ x 8.25″ rectangles to their matching medium-weight fusible interfacing pieces.

Fuse the Fabric A 6″ square and 6″ x 7″ rectangle to their matching medium-weight fusible interfacing pieces.

Step 3 – Making the first pocket

Mark a point 1.5″ from the left hand top edge on the Fabric A 6″ square. Make another mark 2.5″ from the left hand bottom edge on the square.

On the opposite edge to the marks, with wrong sides facing and raw edges matching stitch the Fabric A 6″ square to a Fabric B 8″ x 8.25″ rectangle at the 8″ edge. Centre the Fabric A square so that the Fabric B rectangle extends beyond the Fabric A square by 1″ on each side.

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Open out the fabric. Attach a Non-Slip Mat or Slipper Gripper rectangle to the right side of Fabric A square approximately 0.25″ from the seam. (If you are using the Non-Slip Mat you will need a Teflon foot on your sewing machine or place a piece of tissue paper between the mat and the sewing foot to stop the foot sticking to the mat. I used a medium zig-zag stitch to attach the mat)

 

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Matching the marks made earlier at the top and bottom edges of the Fabric A square, line up the Fabric B rectangle and fold it back in line with the marks. Fingerpress the fold and topstitch to secure.

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Trim the folded lining even with the edges of the 6″ Fabric A square. (The Fabric B piece in the photo above is slightly smaller than the measurements given so I have amended the measurements for the tutorial to make sure that it will fit)

Step 4 – Making the rest of the pockets

Mark a point 1″ from the edge on the longer left hand bottom side of a Fabric A 8″ x 8.25″ rectangle. Cut from the top left hand corner to the mark.

Open out the topstitched Fabric B pocket piece and attach a non-slip mat rectangle to the right side of the Fabric B piece. Make sure that you are only stitching the mat to one layer of the pocket and at least 0.25″ from the raw edge.

Stitch the now angled Fabric A rectangle to the topstitched Fabric B pocket piece right sides together, matching the raw edge of Fabric B with the angled raw edge of Fabric A and centring the Fabric B piece on the Fabric A piece.

Mark 0.75″ from the topstitched edge at the top and bottom of the Fabric B pocket. Fold the now attached Fabric A to line up with these marks. Fingerpress and topstitch.

Trim the top and bottom edges to align with the original Fabric A 6″ square.

Maintaining the folded pockets turn the wallet over and trim any excess Fabric B that extends more than approximately 1″ beyond the original square.

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Repeat these steps 4 more times alternating the Fabric A and Fabric B rectangles. (You may find that you have to move the wallet slightly higher on the 8.25″ rectangles when you attach the later pockets to be sure of having sufficient fabric extended beyond the previous pocket to give the next pocket enough depth)

Step 5 – Making the final pocket

For the final pocket, fold the Fabric A 6″ x 7″ rectangle in half widthways and topstitch as before. Matching the raw edges of the previous pocket attach the final pocket.

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With a long stitch length baste the top and bottom edge of the wallet making sure that you keep the pockets flat as you stitch.

Step 6 – Making up the wallet

Place the wallet on top of the fused Fabric B 11″ x 6″ rectangle wrong sides together and baste around all four sides. (The wallet is very thick in places so take it slowly! You could do these two basting steps as one step but given the thickness of the layers I found it easier to split it into two stages.)

On the Fabric B back measure 2″ from each short end at the top and bottom edges and mark. Cut the 12″ length of elastic in two equal parts and place a length of elastic to match up with the marks. Pin or baste at the top and bottom.

Step 7 – Attaching the binding

Fold one end of your 2″ x 40″ Fabric A under 0.25″ and press, fold the strip in half lengthways and press again. With the raw edges matching and enclosing 1″ of the raw end of the binding inside the folded and pressed edge to finish the bound edge neatly, stitch the binding around the wallet mitring the corners and catching the elastic in the stitching as you go round.

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Fold the binding over to the back of the wallet. Depending upon the thickness of the Ultra heavy interfacing you have used you can either attach the binding to the back of the wallet by stitching in the ditch on the front along the folded edge and catching the binding on the back or use textile glue to adhere the binding to the back of the wallet.

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I used textile glue because there were just too many layers for my sewing machine to cope with in some places!

Now you are ready to fill the wallet with your favourite Cd’s and hit the road 🙂

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Do let me know if you use this tutorial I would love to see your CD wallets!

Thanks Kellie for giving me the opportunity to have fun with such great fabric.

 Thanks very much Fiona, I hope your son appreciates all of your hard work and thanks for putting together and sharing this tutorial.

3 thoughts on “Guest Post: In Car CD Visor Tutorial”

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