You have probably noticed our slight obsession with fusible woven interlining, we use it in lots of our tutorial projects. But it’s easy to see why: check out the ‘spring’ in the fabrics above – the fabric with interlining sits higher and rolls into a smoother curve.
What is Fusible Woven Interfacing?
Fusible woven interfacing is actually a “normal” piece of fabric with a warp and weft threads that are woven together in the traditional way. A layer of adhesive glue is applied to one side which will adhere to other fabric once an iron is applied.
[ If you are new to the technicalities of fabric structure you might find this post helpful ]
Woven interfacing (or interlining) is a great way to give your projects a little more structure, making fabrics easier to work with and it’s super simple to apply. Medium weights are great for quilting cottons in projects like cushions; they will sit better but still feel “squishably” soft and it can help non-padded little bags and pencil cases hold their shape.
Hopefully this quick how to guide will explain why we’re so mad about it here at Plush HQ. But please don’t take our word for it, give it a try and let us know what you think! I have to confess I didn’t really get it myself until I gave it a go, & now I’m hooked!
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The benefits of woven interfacing
- Adds structure
- Adds a luxury feel to your project
- Machine washable up to 60 degrees
- Retains shape
- Works with light to medium weight fabrics (the fabric must withstand being ironed at heat setting 3)
- Gives fabrics a heavier feel
- Reduces drape
- Excellent for adding body to quilt cottons to be used in bag making or home dec projects
- The fabric is made of natural cotton fibres rather than polyester
- Breathable as it’s a natural fibre
In house at Plush Addict we LOVE it for bag, pouch making & cushion covers. It gives a really professional finish to your projects.
A note on using woven interfacing in dressmaking projects
The general rule of thumb regarding using any kind of interfacing in dressmaking is that the interfacing should not be heavier than your fashion fabric. Woven interfacing is great when sewing coats, shirts etc, but it as it does reduce the drape of your fashion fabric it’s not best suited for times you wish your fabric to have a good drape.
How to apply fusible woven interfacing
You will need:
- Pre-wash your fabrics (not the interfacing)
- Test interlining on a 2″ test square of the fabric to check suitability
1. Cut your fabric: Fabrics can be cut to size/ shape before or after applying interfacing.
2. Smooth out the interlining adhesive side up (it feels slightly rough). Lay the fabric on top right side up with the grain lines aligned.
3. Cut the interfacing to the same size as the piece of fabric.
4. Place the fabric right side down on an ironing board.
5. Smooth the interfacing on top of the fabric, coated side down. Trim any interlining that exceeds the size of the fabric to prevent damage to the ironing surface, or lay on some scrap calico/ fabric
6. Cover with a smooth surfaced cloth; a tea towel or spare cotton are ideal.
7. Lightly dampen the cover using the iron’s spray setting.
8. Adjust the iron to heat setting 3 – cotton, no steam.
9. Starting at one corner work the iron across the cover to lightly adhere the materials together, smoothing out any lumps or ridges as the iron moves across.
10. Lift the cover and check for any bumps. The fabric and interfacing may need peeling apart a little. Recover and lightly press.
11. Once the interfacing is smooth, dampen the cover again.
12. Press, spending 12 seconds on each area to achieve good adhesion.
13. Place the coated fabric somewhere flat to cool fully and set the adhesive.
And you’re done!
Want to try woven interning in the wild? Here are some interlining projects you could try:
We hope you found this tutorial useful!
Let us know how you get along in the comments below 🙂
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